Koze Teppan Grill – El Paso, Texas
6127 North Mesa Street
Koze Teppan Grill – El Paso, TexasJul 20
To some, the thought of ordering seafood in a land locked city like El Paso may sound asinine. However, when your insatiable craving for sushi borders on maniacal, you begin to make concessions. Thus I began my quest around El Paso for a halfway decent imitation of the fresh sushi rolls (I didn’t even entertain the thought of finding reasonable sashimi) that I’ve grown accustom to growing up on the seafood rich East Coast. Just when my search seemed futile and scarce giblets of gray, tendon laced backfin tuna seemed as good as it was going to get, I met a respectable offering of the rolls I pined for at Koze Teppan Grill on North Mesa. While the rolls at Koze may not have the heft and value of those back in New York City and are filled with previously frozen fish (expecting fresh fish in El Paso would just be greedy?), they satisfied my sushi craving and keep me regularly coming back for more. My favorites include a simple tuna and avocado roll and the Koze Special Roll, filled with tuna, salmon, crab, avocado, asparagus (I typically ask to hold the asparagus) and cream cheese, deep-fried and served with spicy mayo and eel sauce.
Perhaps the best part of naming Koze my go to for sushi in the Sun City was the discovery of how much else they had to offer. In an impressive utilization of space, Koze transforms a relatively small strip mall storefront into an enjoyable getaway for a nice meal, whether for traditional hibachi at one of their efficiently placed grills or to sample their full menu. Koze’s cuisine fuses Asian influences with steakhouse offerings, putting out some of the best steak I have enjoyed in El Paso to date. To start the meal, I am a big fan of their traditional Korean style Kalbi (marinated barbecue beef short rib) and their Ahi appetizer, a surprisingly pleasant combination of raw tuna, goat cheese and shaved apple slices. Besides a few satisfying sushi rolls, for your main course you cannot go wrong with the boldly flavored grilled lemon and butter shrimp or one of their well prepared steaks. Or of course, if you have the time, indulge in the hibachi grill, complete with chef showmanship and the protein of your choice cooked while you watch – go for the filet mignon or shrimp and you’ll be pleased you did. While my friends and I still debate the proper pronunciation of “Koze,” we surely can agree that it is one of our favorite places to dine in El Paso.
Koze Teppan Grill
6127 North Mesa Street
El Paso, Texas 79912